Going up the Mast!

Climbing the mast is a necessary part of operating a sailboat. Whether you are going up to inspect, or going up to repair something, at some point you will need to go up the mast.

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The normal method to climb a mast is to have someone winch you up the mast. The problem with this method is that you rely on someone else to hoist you up and even worse you rely on their skill to safely bring you back down to the deck.

Having a gantline setup allows you to pull yourself up and more importantly it allows you to bring yourself back down to the deck. The gantline is simple to setup by attaching a block to a halyard and hoisting it up the mast (with the gantline run through the block, otherwise you just sent your halyard up the mast with no way to retrieve it). The other block is attached to your bosun chain and up you go!

Depending how strong you are and how much you weigh, you can alter the amount of mechanical advantage in the system. Remember, pulleys are a simple machine!

Pulling all of your weight up a mast is very hard work! If you setup a 2:1 purchase system, you only need to pull up 1/2 your weight. If you setup a 3:1 purchase system, you only need to pull up 1/3 of your weight. If you setup a 4:1 purchase system, you only need to pull up 1/4 of your weight.

This sounds great, but there is always a catch! The more you reduce the amount of weight you need to raise, the more you increase the amount of line you need to pull. For a 2:1, you pull 1/2 your weight but you also pull 2x the amount of line! For a 4:1, you pull 1/4 of your weight and 4x the amount of line!

If you are climbing a 50 foot mast, this is the difference between pulling half your weight 100 feet or a quarter of your weight 200 feet! At some point, you will just get tired from the repetition and not from the resistance.

I find that it is best with a 3:1 or 4:1 purchase system. If I’m feeling strong, I will do a 3:1 and get up the mast quickly. If my arms are really tired, I will use a 4:1 even though I will have to pull a lot more line!

It also helps to have an extra person (if they are available) around to pull on the tail and do the work for you so that you can rest on your way up that way you are calm and relaxed up there instead of winded and tired. Best of all, when it is time to come down, you can control your rate of decent.

Attaching Synthetic Standing Rigging to Your Mast

Synthetic standing rigging sounds amazing. It’s lighter, stronger, and easier to install than steel rigging; but how do you attach these stays to your mast?

Steel rigging ends in a compression fitting or swage fittings which grips the end of the cable and attaches it to the mast. Synthetic stays can’t be squeezed into a swage fitting or pinched by compression fittings. So how do you attach your new synthetic stay to the spar?

Easy! Instead of a compression type fitting that grips the bitter end of the stay, all you need to do is create an eye splice into the end of the stay. The eye splice simply slips over the clevis pin and attaches to the stay to the spar!

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While steel rigging ends in fancy mechanical fittings that need to be purchased, synthetic standing rigging ends in an eye splice which is easy to do yourself!

Synthetic rigging is very easy to make and very easy to install.

The Magical World Aloft

Being up a mast might not bother some and might terrify others. The truth is being up there is a great way to clear your mind.

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When you are aloft, you have no distractions, no pressing deadlines, no nagging co-workers. It’s just you in your own little world high above the rest. You get a great view of the entire area where you are and you can see far off into the distance.

I personally do not look forward to going up the mast, but while I’m up there, I always feel so relaxed. Everything stops and the whole world takes on a new appearance. It really is a magical place to be.

Thermal Expansion and Rigging Tension

Thermal Expansion is the phenomenon where objects become bigger as temperature changes. In general, with most objects in the world, as things heat up, they also expand. Negative Thermal Expansion is reserved for those rare occasions where materials actually contract as they heat up; Dyneema is one such material.

On a yacht, the rigging must be perfectly tuned to hold the mast in column while withstanding the forces of the wind placed upon the sails and spars. This perfect tune revolves around the lengths of both the spar and the standing rigging. If one of them were to change drastically, so would the tune!

Unfortunately, all materials used in rigging have slightly different coefficients of thermal expansion. Where thermal expansion was the phenomenon of changing size, the coefficient is the rate of such change.

The issue comes down to mixing materials for the spar and standing rigging that will be changing size at various rates.

The most common spar material at the moment: Aluminum, has a coefficient of 23.1 x 10^-6 per Kelvin (or for practical applications “per *C"). This is to say that 1 meter (39 inches) of aluminum will expand or contract 0.000023m for every degree change in Celsius. This might not sound like much, but if you think about a yacht that will endure summers and winters, the temperature change can be rather drastic.

Imagine a yacht that sails in temperatures from cold winter days of 0*C all the way up to hot summer days of 40*C. That is suddenly a 40 K change (Each degree of Celsius is equivalent to 1 Kelvin). On a mast that is 19m tall (62 feet), that means that the change in length of the mast will be:

( 23.1 x 10^-6 / K ) ( 19 m ) ( 40 K ) = 0.017556 m = 17.56 mm ( 0.69 inches )
That is a pretty drastic change in size of your mast!

The next material to think about for a spar is wood, and while Sitka Spruce is the ideal wood for a spar, it is becoming ever harder to find good clear wood for the purpose. The next best wood for a spar, and the one that is becoming ever more popular as a wooden spar is Douglas Fir with it’s coefficient of 3.5 x 10^-6 per Kelvin (when parallel to the grain). The same spar now becomes:

( 3.5 x 10^-6 / K) ( 19 m ) ( 40 K ) = 0.00266 m = 2.66 mm ( 0.10 inches )
Significantly less change in length.

The last common spar material these days is also a very modern material: Carbon Fiber (Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polymers) with a coefficient of -0.8 x 10^-6 per Kelvin. The negative is an important part in this because that means that as the carbon fiber spar heats up, it also contracts!

( -0.8 x 10^-6 / K ) ( 19 m ) ( 40 K ) = -0.000608 m = -0.608 mm ( -0.024 inches )
This material is incredibly stable and barely changes size during the whole year, with its longest being on the coldest days and the shortest on the hottest of hot days, but the difference is less than 1 mm!

A changing spar length means very little if this change is not relative to something else, something like your standing rigging!

The most common material for standing rigging is Stainless Steel with a coefficient of 16.5 x 10^-6. Grade 304 and 316 both have the same coefficient which is why you don’t have to worry about which type is being used in your rigging.

On a spar that is 19 m tall, the cap shrouds will be roughly about 20m long (the beam of the boat is the only additional length in the stay, and this is run at an angle). Lets see how much the length will change over the same temperature variation:

( 16.5 x 10^-6 / K ) ( 20 m ) ( 40 K ) = 0.01254 m = 12.54 mm ( 0.49 inches )

This means that the steel rigging will expand almost half an inch over the years temperatures.

When you combine an aluminum spar with steel rigging, the variation is about 17.5 mm while the rigging is about 12.5 mm. This means that they will expand and contract together and only at the extremes be off by a few millimeters.

On a wooden spar with steel rigging, the difference would be 2.66 mm for the spar and 12.5 mm for the rigging. This means that on the really hot days, the rigging will be about 1 cm longer than the spar if the rigging was setup on the coldest of days.

On a carbon spar with steel rigging, the difference is a bit more drastic. The spar will contract by 0.6 mm while the rigging will expand by 12.5 mm. This means that if the rigging were tuned on the coldest of days, the rigging would be 1.25 cm too long on the hottest of days. If a boat has a carbon spar, then you can assume that the owner of the yacht is interested in performance and therefore would notice the horrible state of the slack rigging!

A newer material for standing rigging is UHMWPE, or Dyneema. This plastic fiber has a coefficient of linear thermal expansion of -12 x 10^-6 per Kelvin. Just like with the Carbon Spar, Dyneema also contracts as it heats up and expands as it cools.

( -12 x 10^-6 / K ) ( 20 m ) ( 40 K ) = -0.00912 m = -9.12 mm ( -0.35 inches )
The change in rigging length is rather dramatic, very close to the change in length of stainless steel rigging, except in the opposite direction. As steel expands, Dyneema contracts and as steel contracts, Dyneema expands.

When we pair these with spars, we see a rather drastic difference emerge!

With an aluminum spar: 17.56 mm expansion of spar and 9.12 mm contraction of rigging as it heats. This means that the difference between the two will be 26.68 mm ( 1.05 inches ) of difference!

With a wooden spar: 2.66 mm of expansion of spar and 9.12 mm contraction of rigging as it heats, with a difference of 11.78 mm ( 0.46 inches ).

With a carbon spar: 0.61 mm of contraction of spar and 9.12 mm contraction of rigging as it heats, with a difference of 8.51 mm ( 0.33 inches ) but going in the same direction.

The take away message here is that the components of your standing rigging will change as temperatures fluctuate. Some materials do not change much while other materials change drastically! Knowing which material combinations you have is imperative to properly setting up your rigging and having it perform the best that it can under most conditions.

If you fail to take into account the temperature fluctuations, you risk serious damage to your yacht. Think about it, if Dyneema rigging on an aluminum spar have almost a full inch of variance between the two, if you setup your rigging on a cold day everything will become too tight during the rest of the year! As spring comes, the mast will get longer and the rigging will get shorter. By summer, your chainplates will rip through your deck or the tangs on your mast will crack!

To prevent such a catastrophe, you simply need to take this change in length into consideration and setup your rigging on a hot day. Not necessarily the hottest day, but a hot day none the less. As winter approaches, your rigging will go slack and no damage will befall your yacht. If you wish to sail in these conditions, you will need to adjust your rigging, and then adjust it back in case you don’t revisit your yacht before a warm day appears.

If you have an aluminum spar and steel rigging, the two materials change length in the same direction and almost at the same rate, this means that you probably will never notice any issues with temperature affecting your rig tune.

If you have a carbon spar, you should have Dyneema rigging for the exact same reason as an aluminum spar and steel rigging. The change will be in the same direction and roughly the same rate so that the temperature range of proper tune can be wider than it ever could be on an aluminum spar.

Covering the Standing Rigging with PVC Pipe

Chafe is a terrible thing for your rigging. The constant sawing action of two pieces rubbing together will damage one or both of these components which can lead to costly repairs or serious equipment failures!

A simple solution to protect your standing rigging is to cover your stays with PVC pipe. The stay can be covered with a small diameter pipe while the turnbuckles can be covered with a larger diameter pipe. Now everything is smooth and protected by a sacrificial layer of plastic. Nothing to rub on and nothing to snag!

The truth is, covering your standing rigging is actually a very bad idea. First for the structural integrity of your rigging, and second for the fact that “out of sight out of mind” is a dangerous motto on a sailboat.

The reason stainless steel is “stain less” is because the it contains more chromium than regular steel. The chromium reacts with oxygen to form a protective layer over the metal and prevent it from corrosion. In the absence of oxygen, this protective layer does not form and crevice corrosion can begin to occur.

Crevice corrosion is a very hard to see kind of corrosion that looks like little cracks in the steels surface. These microscopic cracks run deep beneath the steels surface and actually cause the steel to split and break apart. Crevice corrosion is a major reason why steel standing rigging only lasts about 10 years, longer than that and the rigging will be at too high a risk of having microscopic crevice corrosion which will cause its demise.

Creating a sealed environment will create an environment where the oxygen gets used up until it becomes oxygen deprived and crevice corrosion will begin. This means that the rigging will die earlier and sooner than if it were left exposed to the elements; and more importantly exposed to oxygen.

The other problem with covering your rigging is that you don’t see it. Minor issues like “a pin fell out” or “that looks rusty” will go unnoticed because they are not easily seen. Every boat owner has good intentions to properly care for their boat, but when you walk down the pier at any marina you will see the effects of chronic neglect! Covering your rigging will create one additional step in the process of inspecting your rigging, and that is a process that sadly is usually relegated to “if it catches your eye” inspections.

By having your rigging exposed, you will see it and you will hopefully look at it and if anything changes on it you will notice it and fix it before the problem escalates out of control and your mast comes down!

So, while covering your rigging makes it looks sleeker, it is best to avoid all the work involved in covering your rigging and keep it visible. This will make it last longer and make it easier to inspect so that your entire yacht will continue to perform at its best.