Riding Out a Series of Storms

Storms at sea are inevitable. This is a simple truth. 

If you are going to be out on the water for any length of time, the weather will eventually change. When it does, it will either improve or degrade. No one seems to complain when the weather improves, but everyone wonders what happens when the weather gets bad!

The answer is simple, you ride out the storm!

There are a few key requirements you need to safely survive a storm:

  1. A tether and jacklines
  2. Storm sails
  3. Enough water to drift in

The tether and jacklines will keep you attached to the boat and safe. Jacklines should always be rigged and you should always clip in, especially when the weather gets bad. During severe weather, we clip in even when we are sitting comfortably in the cockpit. You never know when a boarding wave will wash across the boat and float you right out of your protected cockpit and into the unprotected storm seas! 

Storm sails are very small sails made out of very heavy sailcloth material. They are specifically made to handle heavy weather and a crucial part of your storm plan. Flying regular sails is very dangerous in very high winds, the sails can overpower the boat as well as shred in a powerful gust. Storm sails should always be ready to raise when they are needed.

The last part of the equation is having enough water to drift in. A properly setup boat will drift along in the roughest of waves and strongest of winds indefinitely and not sink during the process. There is no amount of equipment that can prevent a sailboat from breaking up on a lee shore if it runs aground.

During a storm, the most dangerous obstacle you can encounter is land! Most boaters head for shore when a storm approaches, but if you can't make it into a safe harbor in time, you should do the opposite and head further out to sea; putting as much distance as possible between you and land before the storm strikes.

In our situation, we found ourselves in a river, with land on all sides and a severe storm approaching. I expected the storm to be a low pressure because the clouds had been gradually building and becoming lower throughout the day. Low pressure winds tend to build gradually as you get further into the storm. Low pressures also suck you into them, knowledge which I planned to use to my advantage! 

The river may look wide, but the deep water is very narrow. Most of the water near the shore is actually very shallow and the river is littered with crab pots and obstructions! Not the best place to get caught in a storm.

To make the most of the narrow water we had, we moved our boat towards the southern edge of the deep water. I expected the low pressure approaching from the North to pull our boat in a northern drift across the river at a slow rate. This would give us enough time to drift while hove to while the storm moved past.

We sat waiting with our storm sails rigged, ready for the winds to draw us in!

As the storm approached, a stiff cold wind struck the boat. This was not a low pressure, but instead a high pressure with strong cold winds blowing away from the storm. This meant that we were not going to be drawn North across the river, but instead we were being pushed South onto the very close shallow water. We hove to and waited to see how the storm played out.

Uploaded by Herby Benavent on 2016-07-11.

As soon as the high pressure hit, I set the sails to heave to. We were flying the trysail and the staysail with a reef in it, acting as our storm jib to balance out the trysail. Getting the boat to heave to was frustrating at first, but once we got in our slick, everything calmed down on board our sailboat, Wisdom.

We were drifting through the water at 0.5 knots with only 0.25 nautical miles to shallow water, meaning that in 15 minutes we would run aground! The choice was made, to claw our way off the lee shore and work our way out into the river toward deeper water in winds of 35 to 40 knots.

Once out into the middle of the river and with more water to leeward, we set the sails to heave too again.

Uploaded by Herby Benavent on 2016-07-11.

We hove to during the storm with more water to leeward as the storm continued to build. The winds stayed at 40 knots for almost a half hour as the waves continued to build, luckily they were calmed by our slick to windward, so any breaking waves would come upon us as gentle rollers. 

The end of the storm seemed magical! Sunlight began to pierce through the clouds as if to tell us that it was over and we survived!

Even though the storm had passed, we still had the storm sails set and ready for more. We are firm believers in "Reef early, shake late"; meaning you make your sails smaller before it gets bad, and you wait a while before you make them bigger again in case bad weather returns. As pleased as we were to have made it through that torrential storm, the clouds on the horizon never cleared up and the blue skies seemed to be swallowed up again. This was only the beginning of the series of storms that would fall on us!

We continued sailing along under trysail and staysail until the storm was much closer. Maddie and I decided that we would try heaving to under trysail only this time to see how that felt. We don't sit around and dream of sequntial storms to test out various storm tactics, but when the oppertunity presents itself, why not experiment a little? 

We made it through the first storm with 40 knots of wind hove to under the trysail and storm jib, but we did feel that we were heeling over a bit much and the boat had trouble keeping its bow into the wind. The decision was made to try this storm under just trysail, hoping that the gear and junk on the deck will provide enough wind resistance to keep our bow from riding through the wind.

The second storm was equally as powerful, with winds holding a steady 40 knots as well! This proved to be an excellent test for our storm tactics as we could compare heaving to under trysail alone and trysail with storm jib on the same tack, same day, and same conditions. 

You can hear from the calmness in Maddies voice that the severe storm is not of concern. We were both calmly waiting for the storm to pass as we slowly drifted through the seas. 

During the first storm (hove to with trysail and storm jib) I stayed at the helm even though it was locked over. I was ready to take the helm should the situation arise because I did not feel completely safe. We were close to shore and heeling over very far. During the second storm (hove to under trysail alone) I felt much safer! Maddie and I both huddled up under the dodger to stay out of the rain. Neither of us was at the helm because we felt no need to be. We knew we were safe as the boat gently rose and fell through the waves during a steady 40 knot blow!

We did have one concern during the second storm, and that was a bouy that was near by. We turned the chart plotter to face forward so we could watch our position relative to it on the screen as we slowly drifted through the water. Visibility was null, so we were unable to see it with our eyes, but we decided that we would run if we got too close to it, get past it, and then heave to again. That was our biggest concern during the storm. Not "will we sink?" "will we capsize?" "will we survive?", no, simply "where is that bouy?"

As stated before, staying clipped in to the boat, with the right sails set up, and plenty of water to drift through is the key equation to safely surviving a storm at sea. They are very easy steps that will ensure you are safe and happy while your boat floats through the water until the storm finally passes.

Details of Removable Fiddle Blocks

Fiddle blocks at the edges of tables may seem logical and easy enough to add, simply attach a vertical section of wood to end of the table and finish it so that it blends in and looks nice with the rest of the boats interior joinery. What if you want fiddle blocks when you are sailing, but smooth flat table surfaces when in port? This is where removable fiddle blocks come into play!

Removable fiddle blocks are simply fiddle blocks that attach to the edge of the table. The simplest method uses a system of rods to connect the block and allow quick and easy removal. On the bottom of the fiddle block, will have bronze (or other metal) rods extending out the bottom of the block that will fit into specific holes on the table top.

To protect the wood of the table, copper or bronze ferrules should be inserted into the hole in the table. Bronze and copper are easily shaped to contour to the holes shape and can be burnished into the wood, holding it in place for the life of the table. The bronze rod simply slides into the copper ferrule, providing a very secure connection between the table and fiddle block.

It is best to make the holes in the fiddle blocks and table after the wood has completely dried out. If you build a table with moist wood, the holes may not line up with the rods as the table shrinks a bit further. For this reason, only do this on an already existing and old table that lives inside and not exposed to the elements.

A small waiting period will give you a wonderful table that will accept your fiddle blocks as needed for the rest of your cruising life.

Chart Symbols: Bottom Composition

Bottom compositions are notated on charts using a system of letters that convey the necessary knowledge to the navigator. At first, these markings may seem random and confusing, but when you boil the system down to it's basics it turns out to be rather intuitive.

Chart symbols referring to the bottom composition will be located amongst depth soundings and will begin with a capital letter. If the symbol is only one letter, then it will be capital. Modifiers about the bottom composition will be in lower case letters.

S: Sand
M: Mud
Cy: Clay
Si: Silt
St: Stones
G: Gravel
Grs: Grass
K: Kelp
P: Pebbles
Cb: Cobbles
R, Rk: Rock
Bo, Blds: Boulders
Co: Coral
Co Hd: Coral Head
Oys: Oysters
Ms: Mussles
Sh: Shells
Vol Ash: Volcanic Ash
Wd: Weed

Modifiers to the bottom composition are:

f: Fine
m: Medium
c: Coarse
bk: Broken
sy: Sticky
so: Soft
sf: Stiff
v: Volcanic
ca: Calcerous
h: Hard

Once you know the language, it is simply a matter of putting the words together to spell out the bottom conditions. They are always stated with the main bottom constituent first.

fS M bk Sh: Fine Sand with Mud and Broken Shells
S/M: Two layers, Sand over Mud
hS Sh: Hard Sand with Shells

Just remember that modifiers about the bottom are in lower case letters, while the bottom composition starts with a capital letter. When the bottom is composed of more than one substrate, it will be listed from main bottom constituent, followed by the lesser constituents.

Top Load vs Side Load Refrigerators

When most people think of a refrigerator, they probably think of the massive monstrosity sitting in their kitchen. These towering units have so much space inside that food can be lost in the back of them for years! 

Boats don't have unlimited space inside them, so these mammoth appliances from your local department store are not typically found inside of a boat. Instead, boats use much smaller "marine" versions of refrigerators.

Some boats have fridges commonly found in college dorm rooms, offering a few cubic feet of storage space and tucking neatly into the galley cabinets. Other boats will have refrigerator systems built into the boat, blending in with all the other interior joinery.

Power boats tend to have side load refrigerators, which is similar to the kind found in houses. Sailboats tend to have top load refrigerators, which may take people some time to get used to. You must be wondering, why have one style over the other? You should look at the pros and cons of each style and decide which is right for you.

Side Load Refrigerators

Side load refrigerators make it easier to access the food stored inside. They also are more familiar to most people, since this is how most household refrigerators are setup.

The problem with side load refrigerators is when you open the door, all the cold air will rush out the bottom and be displaced with warm air. This means that the refrigerator needs to run more often to maintain a cool internal temperature when the door is opened. Standing there for a few minutes looking around for the right item will ensure that all the cool air rushes out and is displaced by warm air. In the long run, these units will consume more energy to maintain the space inside them cool.

The other problem with side load refrigerators is the side of the refrigerator opens. If the refrigerator is positioned with the door towards the midline of the vessel, on one of the tacks the food will be resting into the back of the refrigerator while on the other tack the food will be resting into the door. Should the door be opened when all the food inside is resting into the door, all of the food inside will pour out and into the cabin. Some boats use a small latch on the door to prevent accidental openings, but if you are pounding in rough seas, the last thing you want is for the latch to slip and all of your food to spill into the boat.

If your side load refrigerator is positioned so that the door faces fore or aft, there is less risk of your food escaping when opened underway. As you know, when sailing in rough weather, everything will shift and move meaning the contents of your refrigerator may have shifted. When you open your fridge, be ready to catch anything that might fall out and keep your toes clear of frozen foods.

Top Load Refrigerators

Enter the top loading refrigerator! They have an opening lid rather than an opening door. This means that you can open them and look around on any tack without fear of food flying across the hull. The only way your food would accidentally fly out of the refrigerator is if you capsized, and honestly the food would be the last of your concerns.

The other advantage of a top load refrigerator is they tend to run more efficiently. When you open the lid, the cold air which sinks to the bottom will stay in the bottom of the refrigerator. This means that you can take a little bit of time to find what you are looking for without sacrificing too much cold loss.

While top load refrigerators might seem like a perfect solution for a boat, but they do have their draw backs. Food in a deep refrigerator will have to be stacked. If you want to access food at the bottom, you need to dig for it. This typically involves unloading everything in the top levels to reach the lower levels. Food at the bottom is hard to reach as well, I have long arms and can reach everything if I stretch, but my wife Maddie has trouble reaching food stored along the back wall. It's simply too deep for her to get to comfortably.

The other problem is you need to lift the lid every time you want get into your food. This might not seem like a huge problem, but large doors are heavy and you have to hold it up the entire time you are in there! This is why most top load refrigerators will have multiple small lids, each weighing much less than a giant massive lid.

Sectioning the top into smaller lids means that you now have a smaller hole by which you must access all of your food. You really need to know where you put something, or you might spend a long time searching through a tiny little access.


Neither style is a perfect solution. Top load units are more energy efficient but are not as easy to access. Side load units are less energy efficient, risk spilling all your food, but have great access and feel more familiar to people.

Power boats tend to have side load refrigerators as most first time boat owners gravitate towards power boats. They feel that boats are simply large cars with "entertaining" space inside. Therefore, side load refrigerators are employed to make these boats seem as comfortable and familiar as possible to everyone.

Sailboats tend to have top load refrigerators because opening the fridge while heeled would be a mess. In recent years though, more and more sailboats are offering the combination of top and side load refrigerators. These offer the best of both worlds, allowing you easy access when anchored or in port via the side door, and also through the lid while out sailing. These sailboats should have very robust locks on the side door to prevent accidental openings.

I feel that these combination side and top load refrigerators are being installed to bring more people to the wonderful world of sailing by making them feel more at home when they are in the cabin. Imagine how much easier a sales persons life got when they no longer had to explain why the refrigerator opens from the top, and instead gets to say: "See, the refrigerator opens here, just like at home." 

If you are in the market for a new boat or are refurbishing your galley, consider which refrigerator style suits your needs and desires best and will make you feel most comfortable while aboard.

Beam or Length

When looking for a boat to live in, consider the total size of the boat, not just the length. Many people think they want a 30 foot boat, or a 45 foot boat, or even a 65 footer! As length goes up, so does interior volume and living space. The problem with length is it will cost you!

When you tie up to a marina pier, they charge you by length. The charge can range from $1 to $2 per foot on the east coast, and even higher during holiday times. If you have a 30 foot boat, that would cost you $60 per night; a 45 footer would cost $90 per night, and a 65 footer would cost $130 per night! While length is nice, it does not have as much of an effect on interior space as beam does. 

If you have a 45 foot boat with a 10 foot beam, and you add 1 foot, you now have a 46 foot boat! This will add one foot of length, or 10 extra interior square feet at a cost of $2 extra dollars each night. If you take the same 45 foot boat with a 10 foot beam and add one extra foot of beam to it, you now have a 45 foot boat, but with roughly 45 extra feet of interior square footage! That is a huge increase at no added cost to your overnight docking while traveling. 

When you are searching for a liveaboard boat, consider finding the beamiest (widest) boat in a size range as it will give you added interior volume without increasing your docking fees.