Standing Rigging

Repairing Dyneema Rigging

One of the shining features of Dyneema over steel is the fact that Dyneema can be repaired.

Chafe is the biggest problem facing synthetic rigging, and one that is easily avoided by routing the running rigging in a way that it won’t contact, and then chafe, the standing rigging. Should chafe occur and become serious, Dyneema can be easily repaired with mending splices to insert a new portion of Dyneema replacing the damaged portion.

After 6 years of sailing, our synthetic standing rigging has suffered no major chafing or damage, but our synthetic lifelines have! Everyone always worries about the stays chafing, but the workhorse lifelines are neglected to a life of chafe and abuse! Fenders are tied to them, gear is laid upon them, sheets and sails rub on them! Miles and years go buy where these poor little lines are subjected to abuse right next to the prized standing rigging that is shielded from all extraneous duty.

After all those years, while in Gibraltar, I decided it was time to carry out repairs on the two areas which had chafed. One was due to the windvane control lines tugging harshly on it, which I repaired the proper way; the other was subjected to a sharp metal bicycle pedal rubbing on it the entire way across the Atlantic!

The second repair was carried out in a more “creative” and less “professional” manner. The reason for the variation in repairs is simple: I wanted to see how well both repairs would hold up to similar abuse? Both repairs were done on the same day, so their subsequent wear would be similar. The proper repair is the control, as this is how repairs should be carried out, while the “creative” repair is the variable being measured against the control.

The correct repair is carried out using an end to end splice which mends the chafed area by replacing it with new Dyneema. This method is relatively simple to do, creating two locked splices and requiring access to at least one free end. There are four tapered tails that need to be created and buried and the whole process is rather lengthy, but yields an impeccable repair which is as strong as the original line.

The creative repair is able to be carried out in a situation where you do not have access to either end. A mending piece of Dyneema is inserted into the chafed line using two long bury splices. Additional locking stitches are needed to properly secure the splice as it is not locked on its own and could easily be pulled out if someone wanted to (or if gear snagged on it just the right way). This method only requires one splice and two tapered tails, making it quicker and easier to perform.

After crossing the Atlantic again with these repairs and carrying lots of gear on the deck which chafes on the lifelines, I can say with confidence that both repairs are holding up the same. The end to end splice does look a lot nicer while the creative repair looks a little shabby.

I personally prefer the end to end splice as I prefer locking splices over splices which require locking stitches to secure them, but if you have a situation where there simply isn’t the required free end to fix it, know that this other method will work well to repair your lifelines!

Soft Shackles

Hank on sails are wonderful, and so is synthetic rigging! The problem is bronze hanks are a bit brash on the Dyneema and can lead to costly and early replacements of your headstays. The solution: soft hanks.

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Soft shackles are notoriously large to allow them to loop around all sorts of items, making them very useful in all applications on a sailboat! The problem is when they are really big, they are also really long.
A bronze hank is roughly 2.25 inches long (internal length), meaning that the sail resides about 2 inches behind the stay.
To replicate this same position with soft hanks, the soft shackle needs to be made very small so that it will keep the luff of the sail close to the stay.
I made these soft shackles using 1/4” Dyneema and they are being tested on our next transatlantic voyage.
I will be keeping an eye on how these work out and reporting back on how they hold up!

Which is the safest sailboat?

When it comes to sailboats, there are two main distinctions: deck stepped and keel stepped. This refers to how the mast is supported and directly affects the strength and reliability of the mast.
Which one is safer? Find out in the video link below!

Jury Rigging

When something breaks in your Rigging, the repair is called a Jury Rig. On passage from Gibraltar to Madeira, a 700 mile voyage on the same tack, our windward chainplates broke to the cap shroud and aft lower. Not a good situation when you’re 300+ miles from land!

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While this picture shows the jury rig on the leeward side, it was actually the windward side for the majority of the voyage!
To support the loads of the cap shroud and aft lower, I lashed them to the neighboring deadeyes at a 45* angle. This angle helps keep the loads lower so that the remaining chainplates don’t become overwhelmed and break as well.

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This spread out the load to the remaining two chainplates (forward lower and check stay) while keeping the mast up.
The other very important thing we did as soon as we found the problem was change the sailplan to a setup that would put the least strain on the weakened rigging.

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Being a cutter, we have redundancy in our rigging. The masthead setup is again repeated at the height of our staysail.
The Cap Shroud is stressed by loads on the headstay which pull on the mast head. This meant no jib or full main while we had the broken chainplate. The aft lower is in charge of holding the middle of the mast in place when the spar is loaded, but this task is also provided by the forward lower which also is in charge of giving the mast a forward bend. Being how we were not racing, absolute trueness of the spar was not that critical so the aft lower was of little priority at the moment.
The sailplan was staysail and trysail, with the trysail set at the spreaders. The staysail was supported by the inner forestay and the check stays which also acted like lower cap shrouds for it. Running backstays would not provide this same lateral support as they run too far aft and only function as a backstay.
The trysail was set at the spreaders to keep the forces low and light. Less force aloft meant less strain on the broken rigging.
Being keel stepped with a thick and heavy mast meant that the spar itself was intrinsically stiff. The broken rigging was a unwelcome but not catastrophic.
Figure this, we were sailing along when I discovered the broken chainplates. This means that they were not supporting the mast and the mast was still able to remain unbroken while sailing in 20 knots of breeze. I jury rigged the stays to once again give support to the spar, but the spar was able to support the load on its own without those stays (for the short amount of time, I wouldn’t have wanted to sail 3 days on it without the support!)

When we arrived to our tiny island, I found a mechanic who machined new chainplates for us to replace the broken ones. With the new chainplates installed and the rig set back up to normal, we can now safely sail away to continue crossing the Atlantic.